Friday, July 30, 2010

I'll think of a title later.

So I've decided on my final schedule. I decided that I could absolutely not handle history (one of my least favorite topics) in a language that I'm still learning. Especially when the professor was really boring. Instead, I enrolled in Political and Social Change (of Latin America, obviously) which is more up my alley. Even though it's technically history. It just doesn't have that name attached to it. Oh. And it's taught in English. AND (Dad, cover your eyes) my teacher is actually really foxy, but he's totally not my normal type, so no one has to worry about me going for the professor.

Anyway, I'm now taking two classes taught in English (whatever), 2 in Spanish, and then Spanish grammar. I think I'm using Spanish enough (probably not), and if it's any consolation, it feels weird to go into class and hear English spoken.

Today I skipped my Tango class (which was the part where we actually learned to tango) to go to Plaza de Mayo and see the Madres de la Plaza march. They've been marching there for years, every Thursday at 3 demanding that the government help them find out what happened to their children (los desperaciados - the disappeared) during the dictatorship. Nahuel told us that they know they'll never see their children again, but it's important that people continue to come see the mothers (and grandmothers) and that his generation continue to pay attention because when they stop caring, things like that could happen again.
I was actually really disappointed that I wasn't more moved by the scene, like I thought I would be (still, expectations appear). But I think it may be because I was too concerned with taking pictures of the Plaza (my first time there). Or maybe it was because I thought that since it's such a big thing - I heard about the Mothers in every guide book - that it would be a bigger deal. But it appeared to be a bunch of tourists watching these mothers walk around; it's like they were putting on a performance for us, which I know isn't the truth. I'm hoping that maybe after I learn a little more in my non-history and gender classes, I'll be able to go back with a fresh idea mind about what's going on and I'll see it more for what it really signifies than what I saw today.
It did bring up some interesting thoughts about how loved those children are that even now, years after the dictatorship has ended, their mothers and grandmothers still march for them.

After that we went into the Metropolitan Cathedral of Buenos Aires, which definitely does not look like a cathedral from the outside. It was really nice on the inside, but I was getting really tired at that point and just wanted food and/or a nap.
Shortly thereafter we went to Cafe Tortoni, which is a famous cafe not far from the Plaza. I enjoyed some churros after waiting in the line. In the cold. Because it was 60 when I went to school today and was like 45 when I came back - we watched the cold settle in while we were at the Plaza.

Tonight I had planned on going out with my friends, but the weather is so awful - crazy storms! - that I decided to stay in and now I'm really tired.

Tomorrow I don't have classes, yay! and instead I am going to buy my own pair of tango shoes. We don't HAVE to have them for our tango class, but if we plan to dance outside of the class, it's suggested that we have them. And tomorrow night I am going to a milonga with Jen to take lessons and then hopefully be able to dance a little. It's going to be a disaster. I think I should go back to the salsa place instead, it seems less complicated. It'll let you all know how it goes! :)

Chau!

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

There's a "Study" to Study Abroad? .. Oh.

I started my regular semester classes yesterday - I'm taking 5.
So far, they are:
1. Cultural Studies of Latin Americans
2. Advanced Spanish
3. Gender in Latin America (taught in a historical perspective, and in English)
4. History of Latin America in the 20th Century
5. Tango: The Expression of Buenos Aires

The first two are Monday and Wednesday, and the others are Tuesday and Thursday. So far, I love the first two, and I'm really glad. Today I had the other three and I wasn't too impressed. Our professor for Gender realized that not many people had taken Gender or history courses before, and said that she would teach "the basics," which I've already taken as a Women and Gender Studies Minor, so I'm not sure if I'll stick with it.
Then I had history, and as I explained to my loving father, I would prefer to have a teach who is a jerk, but a good lecturer, than have a bad lecturer who could be my best friend. And this professor went on a rant and then when the 90 minutes had past was confused as to why we were all packed up and the new class was walking into the room. So we didn't talk about the syllabus at all or even whether or not we have a book to buy... But my roommate, Kelsey, told me her friend took him and that he was the best professor he had at University of Belgrano, so I'm unsure.

And finally, Tango. Uh, I can't dance. Part of this class is dancing. It's going to be miserable, and I wanted to take Contemporary Argentine Art which everyone says is REALLY COOL, and instead I chose tango, and now I don't know what to do. I'll have to re-evaluate.

But, I don't really have much to say. I just wanted to let you all know how my classes are going. :)

Friday, July 23, 2010

Evaluation

So it's been just a few days over a month since I arrived in Argentina, and I think it's time for an evaluation. It's also a lot easier to make this evaluation because I came home from Bariloche today to find that I had a new roommate (actually, I knew I had a new roommate, but I just hadn't met her yet).
Anyway, Kelsey is my new roommate, and she is from Michigan. We're a lot alike, and right now she's having a very hard time adjusting to life here in Buenos Aires, and especially with the family. It just makes me think about how my first week in Argentina was. When I first got here, all I could think about was the promise that my parents made me that I could go home if I didn't like it, and how I didn't want to disappoint them (and myself).
I think Kelsey is probably feeling the same way that I had been feeling, and it makes me realize how much of a difference a month makes in life - or for that matter, a few days, hours, or minutes... Already I've come so far with my Spanish. I'm still afraid to speak it, but it's getting easier - especially with people who know that I'm not a native speaker. And even though I placed into a lower Spanish than I would have liked, I learned a lot and I earned a really good grade with my class thanks to some hard work and a few homework checks from Pipa.
I'm starting to figure out the general layout of the city, and twice now I've picked out the bus that I need to take and I've gotten to where I need to go safe and sound (although, I'm very good at running on Porteño time - LATE!), and in the first week I couldn't even figure out how to properly pay the bus.
And originally I got to Buenos Aires, and I knew no one. Of course I get along with all my roommates, but we're also in the same situation and it was easy to cling to each other, but one month in and I had some very good friends some my program that I hope to keep in touch with for life!
I feel like I've already seen so much and done so much that I've had to have spent more than a month here, but really, a month it has been. The good days outnumber the bad, by a long shot, and I'm looking forward to so many more good days.

I'll be picking my classes tomorrow, and they start Monday - right after I get my visa! And from then on, I hope to do a trip a month, some with Emily and possibly Kelsey, and some with Jen. All of them, I hope, will be as much fun as I had in Bariloche, and hopefully my time here will continue it's uphill progression.

But until then (especially if you're reading this and your name is Kelsey), it's always important for me to remember that time passes, sometimes quick and sometimes slow, and that my parents and my best friends are only a skype call away.
To everyone who helped me through my first month: thanks. :) I couldn't have done it without your support.

Bariloche: Está bien

Wow. Bariloche was exactly what I needed at this point in my life. I absolutely love skiing and I loved getting out of the city for a little while, it definitely took my mind off of the stresses of city life and now that I'm back, I'm waaay more calm about things.
I'll start by saying that I went to class on Friday to get my grade, and I got a 9! Which, as described by the Universidad de Belgrano is the equivalent of an A or 3.9 in the US scale. Score 1 for Caroline.

After class, Jen and I bought some food for the bus trip and grabbed a taxi to Retiro's "Terminal de Omnibus" to catch our bus to Bariloche. Of course, the day that we REALLY need to be somewhere on NY time and not Porteño time, there's a ton of traffic. It ended up working out because our bus was an hour and a half late... but we had already gotten out of our taxi and ran to the station before we figured that out (and I had a minor freak out thinking the bus left without us and my Dad was going to kill me for wasting his money, but that was unnecessary).

Now, I'll break my trip down into subcategories so that it's easier to read:

The Hostel:
Our hostel was so fantastic. It was my first time staying in a hostel, and after this experience, I don't know why I would ever choose to stay elsewhere. I felt so safe and the staff at our hostel (Albergue El Gaucho) were so friendly and funny. I didn't bring my laptop or my good camera because I've heard hostel horror stories, but if I go back to Bariloche (the money-God permitting), I would definitely feel safe taking it with me.

The People:
Wow. The people. The people that I met in Bariloche are the nicest people I've met so far in Argentina. Hands down. (No offense to my roommates and the CEA staff, haha.) But I absolutely loved them. It's ski week at Cerro Catedral which means there was a definite international crowd, but it was wonderful. Jen and I shared a room with a crazy old Dutchman (known as Dutch) who worked as a ski instructor in Breckenridge, CO for 35 years. He walked in the first day and said "I'm sorry I'm old, but your other roommate is a tall, dark, handsome Brazilian," and boy, was he right! Thiago was our other roommate and he is 27 and from São Paulo. He was sort of shy, and Dutch is sort of the most outgoing person in the world, and for this, Thiago hung around with Jen and me, and Jen and I also hung around with Dutch (and his eclectic group of friends). There were bandmates from Argentina, a group of young Brazilian girls, some men who had given up material life and become citizens of the world, and of course .. me and Jen. I ate up the people from the hostel; it fueled my experience.
Also, going out with Thiago was hilarious. We went to a bar that was packed with Brazilians (Pipa says it's because it's vacation and not one area of poor Brazil has snow, so they all had to come to Cerro Catedral), but I got mistaken for a Brazilian more than once! Woo-hoo! Haha. I also met a kid who actually lives in Buenos Aires (as I'm gathering, half of Argentina does...) and we have semi-plans to meet up again. It would be really cool to have a native friend, but I'm also worried about cultural differences because it might have a different meaning to meet up with a guy that you met in a bar. To me, coffee = friendship, to Latinos (specifically Argentinians) coffee might mean something totally different...
BUT,
Jen and I stayed at El Gaucho while the others from CEA stayed elsewhere, and we didn't see each other much outside that first day, and I'm so okay with that. I wouldn't have had the amazing experience that I did had I stuck with all the American students, and Jen was the perfect person to share this experience with because we get along well and we tend to want to try out the same things.

The Skiing:
Oh yeah, what did I actually go to Bariloche for? .. SKIING! The conditions at Cerro Catedral were so-so, but I love skiing. As Dutch says, "skiing is Heaven under your feet" and I believe that's the truth. I had so much fun skiing. My first run, of course, after 5 years without skis on was down a red (which is a black diamond in the US), and I'm proud to say that I didn't "wreck myself" (as my brother would say), but I did end up leaving skiing with the group to go off on my own. Skiing doesn't always have to be about being the fastest and best, which is what I think it was to some of my partners, and I was okay with sticking to easy and intermediate runs and enjoying life and the view.
On my second day of skiing, it snowed! It was so magical and I absolutely loved being in the Andes, skiing, while it snowed. Those three things combining made my day one that I will never forget. On the second day I literally did the same basic run every day while my friend Kaitlyn taught herself to snowboard by being a spectator. And I was 100% okay with that. Dutch had some very kind words to say to me about how happy I appeared even though I had an easy day, and I'm now considering ditching school and becoming a ski instructor. I just want to be like him!

I had so much fun on my trip. I don't know what else there possibly is to say. I loved all of my time in Bariloche. There's not one second that I would give away for anything. Seriously. The people, the place, the views were all so amazing. It really was heaven on earth.

Thursday, July 15, 2010

It's really winter now.

Welcome to my second winter of the year!
It's officially gotten cold here, and I have to stay, while I'm not quite as bundled up as some of these Porteños, I am starting to feel the chill! But that's okay because I've finished my first month of classes - intensive Spanish is officially over!
Today I took my test, and tomorrow I'll find out my grade. I also had orientation and my appointment with my advisor to pick my classes, and I have a little bit of work to do because 4 of the classes that I want share the same two time slots, so I have to pick two of those and two other classes. :(

But tomorrow I'm going to Bariloche for a few days. To ski. In the Andes. I'm REALLY excited, and there's no way to know how excited I am until you hear me talk about it. I'm sure I'm driving my Dad batty with my excitement, but .. oh well!
The other day I bought my bus ticket to Bariloche (20 hours on a bus - each way!), and 4 nights in a hostel with my friend Jen. And 7 other people are going and staying in a different hostel than I am. And my friend Jen and I got backpackers backpacks for the trip, so I'm really excited - plus it will come in handy when I go to Iguazu, Mendoza, and .. everywhere else that I plan to go but that isn't definite yet.

So, I just thought I'd let everyone know that things are going well with me. I've been a little under the weather, just a cold, but that I'm REALLY SUPER DUPER excited for some skiing, and .. yeah! Woo!

Okay, for real, I'm going to stop talking about it and go pack. Haha.

I love you all!

Saturday, July 10, 2010

The Ups and Downs of Argentine Life

I think that going a week without blogging probably is too long because I lose so many things that I want to share with everyone, and I have so many things occur that change the mood of my posts, so I'm going to try to write more often, especially when I've been doing things about town.

Last weekend I finished the weekend off by going to the Ferias (open-air markets) of San Telmo and Recoleta, and the Recoleta Cemetery. The Feria of San Telmo is an antique fair, and they have a lot of really interesting and beautiful things. I walked around and took a lot of pictures. I also bought a very small gift for my favorite Hennick Mom! :)
While we were at San Telmo, a girl got her bag stolen. Or, I guess it was before we even made it to the Feria, so it put me on high alert for the day because I would never want that to happen to me. The Feria of San Telmo not only has the market for buying things, but it also has a lot of Tango performers because San Telmo is home of the Tango. We watched a group of 20/30-somethings perform a song, and later an older couple dance the traditional dance.

After San Telmo, we all hopped on the bus to Recoleta and walked through the cemetery as a group. The cemetery is such a spectacular sight, and it's so close to my homestay! The entire cemetery are ornate mausoleums that house whole families. There are a lot that have gorgeous sculptures on them, and then there are the contrasting ones that have been left and are starting to fall apart and collect dust. They're all so beautiful. We also got to see where Eva Peron is buried, and I love her. Of course, with any famous politician, there is a ton of controversy and you either love her or you hate her, but I opt for the love. It's not even well marked where she's buried, and she's with her family instead of her husband's, so her mausoleum says "Duarte." I couldn't get a good picture because there were so many people in the way! It's definitely the site to visit!
After the cemetery we were set free onto the Feria, which is just outside the front gates. Most of the things at the Feria are handmade by the people who are selling them, and there are so many different things to see! I bought myself a couple of beaded bracelets, a purse that changes to different styles, and strongly contemplated yet another painting of the Tango... I have to pick a bunch to help decorate my apartment with Ashley for next school year!

On Tuesday our group got together for a traditional dinner and Tango show. I'm really interested in taking at least one tango lesson, but I already don't like watching it as much as I've enjoyed seeing people dance the salsa or the cumbia. The tango is much more technical and people say it's sensual, but I just don't see that in it. So, I really enjoyed my meal and tried to enjoy the show, but it wasn't as good to me as seeing some old people just dancing on the street. Also, the one lady wore an orange and purple dress, and the Gamecock in me was a bit put off (haha). After the show, I went to the residencia with some of the kids in the group, and we went out to a club. I only lasted until 2, which is when the club scene actually gets going, so I'm going to consider that night a waste of money. But it's good for me to know that I cannot successfully go out on a school night. Now I don't need to re-attempt that one later on...

On Wednesday night I went to see a show called Fuerza Bruta at the Recoleta Cultural Center. It was so cool! I was told it was kind of like Cirque du Soleil and my friend was told it was like Stomp - and it combined aspects from those two shows, but it was more than that, and I'm definitely looking forward to going back one more time. They also pulled my friend Jen up on stage to dance with them for part of it, which was really exciting! Jen's a star!

Thursday was our last class for the week because Friday (7/9) is the Argentine Independence Day. Jen, Emily (my roommate), and I headed downtown to a Cuban Restaurant that gives lessons on salsa and other Cuban dances. Now, if you know me, you know I always quit things that I'm not good at - and we got there are started the lessons, there were people who were REALLY good, and I couldn't even figure out what the instructor was saying. So, I stepped aside and I was going to be content to just watch, but instead Emily and Jen fought with me to try and get me to dance again, and that's when they pulled us aside with a separate instructor. So for about $5USD we got an hour and a half of private salsa lessons - and a really good vocabulary lesson for my Spanish class!
The annoying part about Thursday night was that I was all ready to go out, and Pipa told me I shouldn't bring my purse because I'd have to put it down when I was dancing, and then I'd get it stolen - and my roommate Emily just had her wallet stolen, so we were on alert. So, I agreed and instead put my cell, keys, and wallet in my front pockets of my jeans. On the crowded, rush-hour subte though, a man successfully stole my cellphone because I thought it was just his backpack hitting into my leg. I'm SO annoyed because I could have prevented it, but I just didn't think it was anything until it was too late. Jen let me use her cellphone to cancel mine, and at least no one can charge calls to my credit card now...

On Friday, Jen came to Recoleta and her, Emily, and I went out for a late lunch. There were a lot of places that weren't open because it was Independence Day, but we found a nice restaurant near my homestay and ate there. After lunch Jen and I decided to go see the Florialis Generica which is about ... 10 blocks from my house? Emily wasn't feeling good, so she went back home to rest. Of course, Jen and I almost got robbed (again), but I realized what was going on in the midst of everything, and successfully got us away without creating a big scene. But essentially, they made it appear like a bird pooped on us, and then they offered us napkins and water to clean it off. But in the process the poop was spread all over us, AND on to our purses. The lady who was "helping" tried to lift my bag off my body so that she could clean it better, and I caught on and wouldn't let her.
It's just really frustrating that no matter what I do here, I'm going to be a target. If I speak in English, I'm a target. If I speak in my non-accented Spanish, I'm a target. Apparently you can tell that I'm not from here by the way I walk! So, there's really no way to avoid being targeted, except pre-planning everything and being really aware of your surroundings and your belongings. I don't like the feeling that I'm always being watched, but I'm sure that with time I'll just come to accept it and catch on to all the games that people play.

Last night I went out to a club with a bunch of people from CEA, and I ended up staying overnight at my friend's homestay because her mom didn't feel comfortable calling me a cab at 5am and putting me in it alone. So for the entire day I've just been really lazy because I didn't sleep that great last night. And today our one roommate, Rachel, moved out, which was sad. It's sad to think that Patricia only has 3 more weeks and then we'll wait and see if another girl moves in with us for the semester.

We had orientation at Universidad de Belgrano for the semester the other day - that way we have an entire week off to travel between intensive Spanish and semester classes - and I'm really excited. They suggest taking 4 classes, but I'm definitely going to take 5. Now I just have to decide what ones I want to take because I did have them all pre-approved, but now they offer a "Women in Latin America" class, and the Women and Gender Studies minor in me is feeling a strong pull towards that - although my other 5 classes were all going to fulfill requirements towards my major/Spanish minor. I'll keep you updated with whatever I end up choosing after my adviser appointment.

Oh! And .. FUN FACT, but this is actually more sad - but it's a fact: I was talking to CEA Staff Member (and new best friend) Nahuel about life in Argentina, and I asked him if to Argentinians the value of a pesos feels like what a dollar feels like to Americans, or, if like I do, Argentinians compare the currency and think of a peso as $.25 USD. And he said that a peso felt like a dollar to Argentinians (which sounds like a stupid question, but like a soda is $5 pesos, and so it's really like $1.25 - but I don't think I would buy a small soda if it was going to be $5!). Anyway, I then asked him what Argentine minimum wage is, and he told me that it's 2.10 pesos an hour! That's a little over 50 cents! PER HOUR. That way, if you work a full time job, you make .. not even enough for rent. So, that's my fact. If you're feeling a little poor in the US of A, think of how it must feel to try to survive on that, and I'm sure you'll feel a little bit richer.

Sunday, July 4, 2010

Tigre & a Night Out on the Town

I just thought I'd write a quick little entry while I have a moment before I go to sleep.

Last night I went out with my roommates to a bar and then to a club called Crobar. It's funny because Crobar comes highly recommended/is listed in almost all the travel guides, but I didn't really like it. It's this insanely huge club that can hold like 2,300 people or something. It was crazy. It's just an issue because I'm not a very good dancer, and Argentine men are very forward. So I would be doing the knee bend (thanks Stephanie!) and all of a sudden some Argentine guy would be stroking my hair and trying to get to me to break out of my shell. I'm just not so certain that the over-sized club scene is "my" scene. But I am glad I at least got to see what a 2,300 person club looks like. (Although I am slightly annoyed that I've washed my hair and it continues to smell like smoke...)

Today was obviously the devastating game between Argentina and Germany. I watched at a restaurant with my friends and two girls who have graduated college and come to learn Spanish. They actually don't live too far from me, and we'll be here for about the same length of time, so I'm looking forward to maybe having some new people to spend time with.
Anyway, I watched the game, and I've never seen a restaurant vacate so fast. I'm sure by shortly after halftime everyone knew we didn't have any more of a chance, but people just ditched that place. Of course then I heard someone blowing a horn on the street and instead of it sounding jubilant, it was like a lost elephant looking for it's mother. It was so depressing.

After the game my group of CEA students met at the train station, and we headed into Tigre. I absolutely loved Tigre, and I'm going to try to convince my father that it's a worthy destination to live in. It's an area full of sedimentary islands, so the water looks really dirty, but it just looks like the cutest place to live. There's a grocery store boat that goes dock to dock, and people use boats to commute instead of cars. The only thing I'm not sure I could handle is that fact that they don't really have phone, cable, or internet. But... I could attempt to rough it, right?

This is a picture of the Tigre Mueseum of "Bellas Artes"


And Happy Independence Day, all you USA-ers!

Thursday, July 1, 2010

Never Again Will I...

Take 5 hour classes.
This intensive program is killing me, and NOT because it's intense. So far we're still learning things from basic, which means present tense. And I go to school for 5 hours a day and practically fall asleep in class.

I really have nothing cool to share, and I feel so lame! Life is continuing as normal. I'm spending a lot of time with Jen, Lauren, and Mary Lyn - but Lauren and Mary Lyn are only here for a month, so our time is quickly ending, and Jen and are trying to plan things to do with ourselves to fill the void. Haha.

On Tuesday I left class early for a little CEA trip to a leather factory, which was not at all what I expected (that pesky thing about expectations). I thought it would be more like they would give us some kind of an explanation about how they make their products, but they were solely there to sell us things. And they didn't have boots. So it wasn't really worth my time to miss class. And because I missed some class Tuesday, I skipped our trip to Plaza de Mayo today (which I can do with the semester students instead of the summer students).
After the Leather Factory thing, we were going to take the bus back to the school and change lines to our own respective neighborhoods, and so Mary Lyn and I were on the lookout for our stop. And then we missed it. And we stayed on the bus. It got on a highway and went 45 minutes out of the city into Buenos Aires provinces. So, some nice ladies told the bus driver not to let us off because we were clearly lost, and he listened. Sometimes prayers get answered instantly. Needless to say, I'm definitely not friends with the #15 bus line right now...

This weekend should be a good weekend though. Of course the weather was supposed to be beautiful and then it changed to 4 days of rain, BUT there are so many things going on!
1) Tomorrow night me and my two roommates are going to go out (yay! My first time!)
2) Saturday is the Argentina vs. Germany game and Germany is going need to watch their backs. Plus, I bought a jersey from a street vendor, so I'm really excited to wear it.
3) We're going to the Tigre Delta, which is supposed to be gorgeous and my grandfather told me I had to make sure I went, so I'm glad we're going as a group.
4) If it doesn't rain, we're supposed to go to the Ferias of San Telmo and Recoleta (which is just a few blocks from my homestay!)
5) On Saturday night, after a really full day of activities, my friends, my roommates, and I plan to go to this bar that has board games at the tables, so it should be a fun/chill night out.

Anyway, Emily (my roommate) has convinced me to power-hour through my homework so that we can finish watching Juno together.
So, until next time, chau!